Split pea soup, along with lentils, is a much maligned food, at least in American culture. They’re lazy stock jokes in film and television; shorthand for bad or inedibly bland food.

I knew that wasn’t true from the first time I ever tried split pea soup. Done right, it’s a savory and hearty delight. My version is extremely straightforward.

1lb (450g)  split green peas
1.5L        water
2           carrots, diced small
2 1/2t      salt (15g)
1t          onion powder
1/2t        mustard powder/ground mustard seeds
1/8t        liquid smoke

Rinse the peas, and add to the water in a pot. Bring to a boil and skim. Add the remaining ingredients, lower to a simmer, then cover and cook until peas are completely soft – about 45 minutes. Keep going until they’re mush if that’s what moves you, but I prefer them to have just a little texture.

Finish each serving with cracked black pepper, and /or a good drizzle of chhonk – made by tempering 2t cumin seeds, 1t ground chili peppers, and a pinch of asafoedita/hing if you got it, in 2T of neutral oil (infinite thanks to Priya Krishna for introducing me).